Buying batteries online feels like a gamble. You need quality cells for your project, but the market is full of fakes that can ruin your products and reputation.
To avoid fake LFP1 or NMC2 batteries online, you must verify the seller's authorization from the original manufacturer, check the cell's QR code3 for traceability, and test a small sample order for internal resistance, capacity, and weight before placing a bulk order. This ensures you get genuine products.

I’ve spent years in the battery industry, and I’ve heard too many horror stories from clients who were burned by online sellers. They thought they found a great deal, but they ended up with a pallet of useless, or even dangerous, junk. The good news is that you can protect yourself. It just takes a little bit of diligence and knowing what to look for. Let’s break down the exact steps you need to take to source authentic batteries with confidence.
How to check if a battery is legit?
You’ve found a supplier with great prices. But how do you know if their batteries are real? One bad batch can cause product failures and destroy customer trust.
To check if a battery is legit, first ask for the manufacturer's authorization certificate. Then, get a clear photo of the cell’s QR code to verify its origin and production date directly with the original factory. These two steps are your first line of defense.

These initial checks are non-negotiable. I always tell my clients, if a supplier hesitates to provide this information, walk away immediately. A legitimate partner will be transparent because they have nothing to hide. Let's go deeper into what you should be looking for in each of these documents.
Step 1: Verify Seller Authorization
First, ask the seller for their "manufacturer's authorization certificate4." This is not the same as a general business license. A real certificate is a document from the original cell manufacturer, like EVE or CATL, that proves the seller is an official, approved distributor. Look for two key things on this certificate: the original manufacturer's official stamp and a valid expiration date. An expired certificate is a red flag.
Don't just take their word for it. The next step is to verify it. Ask the seller for the contact information of their sales representative at the original factory, including an email or phone number. Then, you or a Chinese-speaking colleague should contact the factory directly and ask them to confirm the seller's authorization status. This simple verification call can save you thousands of dollars and countless headaches.
Step 2: Demand the QR Code
Every genuine, Grade-A battery cell comes with a unique QR code or barcode printed directly on it. This code is like the battery's birth certificate. Before you even place a sample order, ask the seller for a clear, high-resolution photo of the QR code on the cells they plan to sell you.
Once you have the photo, you can use an app like WeChat to scan it. Major manufacturers like EVE have official "mini-programs" inside WeChat that allow you to check the code. This will instantly show you the cell's production date, batch number, and other factory information. If the information matches what the seller told you, that's a good sign. But if the seller gives you excuses, or if the QR code is scratched off, covered by a sticker, or too blurry to read, stop. Do not buy from them.
Is it safe to order batteries online?
You worry about sending money to an unknown supplier overseas. A single bad order can mean huge financial losses and critical project delays, making you hesitant to trust online sources.
Ordering batteries online can be safe if you take the right precautions. Always start with a small sample order to test key performance indicators yourself before committing to a large purchase. This minimizes your risk and verifies the supplier's quality and honesty firsthand.

Testing samples is the most critical step in the entire process. Datasheets can be faked, and photos can be misleading, but physical test results don't lie. You don't need a million-dollar lab to do this. For less than a hundred dollars, you can get the basic equipment needed to uncover most scams. I've seen customers come to us after being burned by suppliers who sent great samples but delivered a terrible bulk order. That's why your contract is just as important as your tests.
Key Metrics to Test in Samples
Once your samples arrive, it's time to put them to the test. Focus on these three critical indicators.
| Test | What to Do | What It Tells You |
|---|---|---|
| Internal Resistance | Use an internal resistance tester. Measure each cell and compare the values. | Genuine Grade-A cells have very low and extremely consistent resistance values. If the numbers vary widely between cells, you likely have B-grade or recycled cells. |
| Capacity | Use a battery analyzer to run a full charge-discharge cycle. Measure the actual capacity in milliamp-hours (mAh). | The measured capacity should be very close to the official datasheet specifications. If it's significantly lower, the cells are fake, old, or low-grade. Don't trust the seller's claims. |
| Weight | Use a precise digital scale to weigh each cell. Compare the weight to the official manufacturer's datasheet. | Real cells have a consistent weight. A deviation of more than 1% is a major red flag. It suggests the internal materials or construction are not what they should be. |
After testing, make sure your purchase contract or platform order notes specify your requirements clearly. Include a line like: "Product must be brand new, Grade-A cells, directly from the original factory, verifiable by QR code, with a production date within the last 6 months. Goods not meeting these requirements are eligible for a full refund." This gives you legal recourse if the bulk order doesn't match the samples.
What are counterfeit batteries?
Counterfeit batteries can look identical to the real thing. But using them in your products can lead to poor performance, device failure, or even dangerous safety incidents like fires.
Counterfeit batteries are often B-grade cells, recycled cells from discarded packs, or cells from unknown factories relabeled to look like premium brands like CATL or EVE. They are sold as "brand new Grade-A" but deliver poor performance and pose a serious safety risk.

Understanding the different types of fakes is key to spotting them. The online marketplace is flooded with these because the profit margins are huge for dishonest sellers. They prey on buyers who are looking for the lowest price without understanding the risks involved. Remember the insight I shared earlier: "The so-called 'brand new' lithium batteries bought online at low prices are likely to be defective or recycled old goods."
Types of Fake Batteries
There are three main categories of fake batteries you'll encounter.
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B-Grade or C-Grade Cells: During production, not every battery cell meets the highest quality standards. These cells that fail top-tier quality control are designated as B-grade or C-grade. They might have slightly lower capacity, higher internal resistance, or a shorter lifespan. They are not dangerous, but they are not A-grade. Scammers buy these for cheap and sell them as premium A-grade cells.
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Recycled/Dismantled Cells: This is a huge problem. These are used cells harvested from old battery packs—think discarded electric scooters, laptops, or even electric vehicle modules. The cells are cleaned, re-wrapped in new plastic sleeves, and sold as new. Their history is unknown, their performance is degraded and inconsistent, and they are a massive safety risk.
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Relabeled Fakes: This is outright fraud. A seller takes cells from a cheap, unknown, low-quality factory and puts a new wrapper on them with the logo and markings of a major brand like Samsung, EVE, or CATL. You are paying a premium price for a bottom-tier product.
The easiest way to spot these fakes is the price. If you find a deal that seems too good to be true, it always is. Major brands have stable pricing. A supplier offering cells for 30-50% below the market rate is cutting corners somewhere, and it's always on the quality of the cells.
Is LFP safer than NMC?
You're designing a new product and need to choose a battery chemistry. You hear a lot about LFP and NMC, but you're worried about making the wrong choice for safety and performance.
Yes, LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate) is generally considered safer than NMC (Nickel Manganese Cobalt). LFP's chemistry is more stable, making it far less prone to thermal runaway from overcharging, short circuits, or physical damage. This inherent stability is its key safety advantage.

While both technologies are mature, their fundamental chemical structures lead to different safety profiles. The most important concept to understand here is "thermal runaway." This is the primary safety concern with any lithium battery, and it's where LFP truly shines. However, it's crucial to remember that a genuine, high-quality NMC battery from a reputable supplier is always safer than a fake, recycled LFP battery. The first priority is authenticity, regardless of chemistry.
Understanding Thermal Runaway
In simple terms, thermal runaway is a chain reaction where a battery gets hotter and hotter, very quickly and uncontrollably. This can lead to the release of flammable gases, fire, and even explosions. It's often triggered by an internal short circuit, overcharging, or physical damage (like being punctured).
The key difference lies in the cathode material. The phosphate-oxygen bond in an LFP battery is incredibly strong. It is very difficult to break this bond to release oxygen, even at high temperatures. Since oxygen is a key ingredient for fire, this makes LFP batteries very resistant to catching fire. NMC batteries, on the other hand, use metal oxides. These materials can start releasing oxygen at lower temperatures, which makes them more susceptible to thermal runaway if they are damaged or misused.
A Practical Comparison
Here is a simple table to show the differences in safety and performance characteristics.
| Feature | LFP (LiFePO4) | NMC (Li-NMC) |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal Stability | Excellent (stable up to ~270°C) | Good (stable up to ~210°C) |
| Risk of Thermal Runaway | Very Low | Higher |
| Response to Damage | Much more stable, less likely to ignite | More sensitive, can catch fire or vent |
| Energy Density | Lower (heavier for the same energy) | Higher (lighter and smaller) |
| Typical Application | Energy storage, buses, industrial equipment | Power tools, drones, some EVs, electronics |
Ultimately, the choice depends on your application. If safety is your absolute highest priority and you have some flexibility on space and weight, LFP is the superior choice. If you need the highest possible energy in the smallest, lightest package, NMC is often the answer. But no matter which you choose, sourcing it from a verified, trustworthy manufacturer is the most important safety decision you will make.
Conclusion
To protect your business, always verify your supplier, check cell QR codes, test samples thoroughly, and get all quality requirements in writing. These simple steps will help you avoid the scams and source genuine, high-performance batteries. If you need a reliable partner for custom battery solutions, my team at Litop is here to help.
Explore the benefits of LFP batteries, including safety and stability, to make informed decisions for your projects. ↩
Learn about NMC battery characteristics to understand their applications and performance in various devices. ↩
Discover how QR codes can help you trace the origin and authenticity of battery cells before purchasing. ↩
Find out how to secure a manufacturer's authorization certificate to ensure you're buying from a legitimate source. ↩